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Nikon D100 - Page 3 - D100 for a Wedding?

The first weekend of August was a busy weekend for weddings. My wife and I had been invited to two weddings on the same day. To make sure we didn't offend anyone, she went to one and I to the other, ensuring that the one I attended would be one where I actually knew the people. As it turned out, the table I was seated at was with my good friend Tony’s family for which I had taken photos at his wedding and his brother Bill (as described in my A Day in the Life of an Amateur Wedding Photographer article).

It was a perfect opportunity to take some photos with the D100 in a reception setting, in which low light is the norm and action can be fast-paced. It was also perfect in that I was a guest with no obligations to take photos for the couple and that allowed me the opportunity to pick and choose the moments I wanted. Except for a few occasions in which I got up to stake out a good vantage point, I took most of the shots from the area of my table.

I shot with the following settings,

  • JPEG Fine and Large resolution capture
  • Low Contrast
  • No Sharpening
  • Auto White Balance
  • ISO 800
  • SB28DX on regular D-TTL not Matrix mode
  • Aperture Priority with the 18-35mm and 35-70mm lenses and Manual mode for a faster shutter speed when using the 80-200mm lens

I did not shoot RAW because I only had one 512 MB card available at the time (the other loaned out as a return favor to the co-worker who loaned me his Canon Elan II kit). JPEG allows for a nominal 151 shots on a 512 MB flash card but the true amount is dependent upon what the subject matter is comprised of. 151 shots is only the default for Large-size JPEGs, which would be quite rare in general shooting circumstances.

ISO 800 was used because if I had shot film, I would be shooting with Fuji NPZ 800, and ISO 800 is a necessity if you want ambient light to burn through in the background.

Matrix TTL should be avoided for anything requiring the flash to be the key light. Even with regular D-TTL, I felt most of my shots could have used at least a plus one-third stop boost in flash output.

These settings would be a good test of just how clean ISO 800 is and how usable the images would be for printing. I only shot about 70 images and chimped a half-dozen in editing. Of the remaining, I chose nine images to work with for final editing and printing for trying out some ideas of how to do a digital wedding.

I brought up the levels for all the shots to some degree, some more than others and this in turn would also bring up the background noise. I had concerns about how clean the print would be given what I saw on my monitor. I was also concerned about how the noise was going to be after sharpening. To this end, I went in search of an effective sharpening method that would allow me to sharpen what needed sharpening and avoid the background as much as possible. I found what I was seeking at my current favorite website (outside of my own :-) of Michael Reichmann’s Luminous Landscape, specifically, a guest article by John Brownlow about Smart Sharpening.

Smart Sharpening is a process of outlining specific edges of the main subject while working to ignore the background. This technique is quite effective and although certain noisy areas may still come out a little worse for wear, it is nothing compared to the indiscriminate nature of regular Unsharp Masking in Photoshop. For those with more software resources, the use of Quantum Mechanic Pro could also be another useful run-through first before applying the Smart Sharpening.

After editing the images, I ran the images through Qimage Pro for printing on 11x17 sheets of Epson Premium Glossy Photo Paper. Note here that Qimage Pro does not recognize TIFF images with alpha channels, which is required when using Smart Sharpening. I had to save a copy of the image at maximum JPEG resolution for Qimage to work with the images in the templates I wanted. Thankfully, no degradation was apparent in the conversion.

The results on print turned out better than I would have thought possible given the amount of noise seen on the monitor at 100% magnification. The noise is there but it is not objectionable to my eyes and printing to 10x15 inches at 200 dpi, resulted in a nice looking print. Other prints I did on 11x17 inch paper were two 6.5x10 images on one sheet; four 5x7 images; and eight 3x5. These sheets were inserted into an 11x17 size Prat Pampa portfolio book for an elegant change to the traditional wedding album fare.

This printing flexibility is a key benefit of digital, as you can literally arrange the images anyway you can imagine on the paper for a unique look all your own. I only did some plain Jane printing this time around but the world is open for borders, adding text and other features and graphics that would be difficult to do traditionally.

This small-scale test worked out well and I was happy with the results after editing. It also alleviated much of my fear of shooting a wedding digitally as far as the technicalities are concerned. Am I roaring to go to shoot a full 10-hour day wedding? Not on your life!

Some concerns about shooting a wedding digitally (biased for my circumstances):

  • No back-up camera in case the D100 goes down or is otherwise destroyed by a cruel twist of fate – now I do have the F100 available but then this would be inconsistent with the manner in which I would do a digital wedding shoot plus the editing of the images may result in images that do not match what the film camera would produce
  • Having enough memory cards is expensive and I do not have enough to run through a full day of wedding photography with 2 – 512 MB cards on JPEG Fine mode. At least 2 gigs would be what I would need to feel comfortable and probably 3 gigs to feel really good – of course not having to buy film should make up for the flash card expense in short order
  • The speed of the D100 is generally good enough for the way I shoot and the 6 frame buffer has not been as big of a bottleneck for actual shooting than I had originally thought, however, the frame rate of the D100 is going to annoy me on various occasions – example, the first shot of the couple above walking pass my shooting position, was done with flash and camera set to Rear Curtain Sync and panning. The fps of the D100 allowed only two shots to be taken at a shutter speed of around 1/8 of a second. In the time the couple took to walk by me, I think I could have gotten another couple of frames from the F100 despite the slow shutter speed, which would have offered more choices for a good image to use
  • AF is also adequate enough with my 80-200mm lens, so long as I use the centre focus point. Using the outer points on a subject with low contrast is painful in the amount of hunting the D100 inflicts on the lens. This reduces the effective speed for quick composing and shooting
  • However, the biggest issue that would stop me from doing a full digital wedding is the amount of editing required afterwards to optimize the photos for printing

I don’t know about you but I’m the type that is going to want to tweak an image to have it look its best before printing it out and I have a hard time trying to comprehend editing 500 plus images in one go. The easy way out is to print the captures straight through and thus really have them as nothing more than proofs before final edit, but would you do that with film?

Taking professional grade film into a good lab means having each photo optimized even for 4x6 prints. Film can be processed and printed in a matter of hours but most places are going to take a day or two before you can pick them up. Now consider that even if I only spend five-minutes per image, for 500 images, that is almost 42 hours of editing never mind the printing time which would take that to well over 50 hours total.

I know that there are a great many photographers out there who have switched over to digital but most of these photographers seem to be high-rate charging pros ($3000 plus per booking) that can afford to either edit themselves or hire someone to do it for them. This is their job and means of supporting themselves and their families whereas I do this on the side and do not envision taking it up full time, hence the lack of justification on my part to expend so much time on a digital wedding.

I was willing to at least give it go for one wedding and see how it worked out, but after much thought, I backed out and bought film instead. Digital is great for much of what I like to photograph, but I’m not prepared to forego the ease, speed, and convenience of film for a wedding (hard words for me to swallow given how much of a digiphile I have become). Although I would save money by editing and printing digitally, the amount is not enough to warrant a week’s worth of my own time for such a project.

Update - Since writing these comments, I have had the opportunity to try Bibble for processing my D100 images and have explored Photoshop Actions for batch processing. Although not perfect, the batch processing offered by these two applications does make the editing process less onerous.

The weakness to batch processing is the assumption that the parameters chosen for editing one image will be suitable for all the images in a given folder. This is obviously not going to work for some images that are not "average" and require more work to look their best. However, I am less concerned about shooting a wedding digitally now thanks to the software solutions available now, but I'm still not rushing out to do a full day's shoot just yet ;-)

  • Page 1 - Main Page
  • Page 2 - Test Shots with Various Settings
  • Page 3 - D100 for a Wedding?
  • Page 4 - Digital vs. Film
  • Page 4A - Digital vs. Film (Nikon Coolscan IV)
  • Page 5 - Studio Lighting
  • Page 6 - Executive Summary

 

 

 

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